In My Garden: Broccoli Raab
Broccoli Raab, sometimes known as Rapini or simply Raab, is a winter crop, and one that I look forward to every year. In an article in an old Kitchen Garden Magazine the author says "It is one of the most popular vegetables in Italy, favored for it's slight bitterness, which is a little like mustard greens with a hint of broccoli, although all comparisons fall short of capturing raab's unique flavor. " And he is right. Sauted with lots of garlic and red pepper flakes, mixed with pasta or in polenta, it's flavor is in a class of it's own.
In Southern California broccoli raab is grown from fall thru spring. We are almost done with our winter crop and I recently planted a second crop for a spring harvest. The plants will bolt too quickly in the summer heat. Once you start cutting the heads, more and more smaller heads will pop up. I usually plant a 2' x 10' bed, two rows wide, we get between seven to ten meals for the two of us.
To prepare the raab for cooking, simply chop into 1" lengths, being careful not to cut the buds. Use only the tender tops of the raab, this includes the buds and the young stems and leaves. Most recipes call for boiling the raab in water. But my wife, Laura, never does this, preferring a quick saute in good olive oil and lots of fresh garlic if the raab needs pre-cooking. Boiling vegetables just makes them soggy.
Our favorite recipe for broccoli raab with linguini was included in the old Kitchen Garden Magazine, given to the author by an Italian man he met on a train while traveling in 1971. I will share it with you, with some revisions Laura has made. It is very similar to making risotto, the pasta gets very creamy with the constant stirring.
1/2 package linguini
6 cloves garlic, chopped
red pepper flakes, to taste (approx 1 tsp.)
olive oil
4-6 cups chopped broccoli raab
6 cups water (you won't use all of this, but it's good to have enough on hand)
1/2 tsp salt
Break the linguini into fourths (approx. 2" lengths). In a large skillet saute the garlic and hot pepper in the oil. As soon as the garlic begins to brown add 1 cup of water. When the water comes to a boil add the salt and linguini. Stir until all the pasta is coated with oil and water. One the pasta settles a bit, turn the heat down to medium and add the raab. Continue to stir, adding water a 1/2 cup or so at a time, as it gets absorbed by the pasta. Once the pasta looks done, stop adding water so that any remaining water will be absorbed, but continue to stir so the pasta doesn't stick to the pan. This recipe should take about 15 minutes total. As I said, it's very similar to making risotto. The constant stirring makes it creamy and helps the flavors to all blend together beautifully. Enjoy!
